The town of Chamba,
the district headquarter of Chamba district is situated in the western Himalayas
between north latitudes 32°10′ and 33°13′ and east longitudes 75°45′ and 77°33′.
The town stands on a plateau on the right bank of the Ravi river valley between
Dhauladhar and Zanskar ranges south of the inner Himalayas. This town was
founded by Raja Sahil Varman when he conquered the lower Rani valley from the
petty chiefs called Ranas and Thakurs in the beginning of 10th Century. It seems
the original name of the town was Champa as mentioned in Kalhan’s Rajtarangani.
In the bansauli or genealogical rolls of the Chamba Rajas a reference occurs of
place which was adorned with highly fragrant Champaka trees and guarded by
Goddess Champavati or more popularly known as Chameshni. The temple was built by
Sahil Varman in the honour of his daughter Champavati who is worshipped as a
goddess in Chamba. Champavati temple became the family temple of the ruling
family.
GENERAL
INFORMATION
AREA: 6528 sq. km
POPULATION: 4.60 lakh
SEASON
The best tourist
season to visit Chamba is between April and October. Adventure tourists may like
to undertake winter trekking from November to March when the higher reaches of
the district are snow clad and access to most of the villages is on foot.
CLIMATE
The climate of Chamba
in general is tempreate with well defined seasons. However, there may be
variations because of micro-climatic systems depending upon altitude and
mountain aspect. The winters last from December to February. March and April
generally remain cool and dry but snowfall does occur at higher elevations
during these months. The temperature begins to rise rapidly from the middle of
April till last week of June or first week of July when monsoon breaks-in.
Monsoon continues till the end of August or mid September. During the monsoon,
the weather remains misty, humid and cloudy. October and November are
comparatively dry but cold. The maximum temperature in Chamba town in summers is
38°C and the minimum in winter is 0°C.
GETTING THERE
Chamba is
approximately 52 kms from Dalhousie. The distance is reduced by 6 kms. via Upper
Barkota and Khajjiar road. Bus and taxi service is available from Chamba to
Pathankot, Delhi, Dharamsala, Shimla, Chandigarh, Jammu and most of the Punjab
cities along the national highway.
PLACES OF INTEREST
Chamba has a number
of temples, Palaces and stylised buildings. The striking objects of interest are
the old temples which exhibit architectural beauty of design and execution.
LAXMI
NARAYAN TEMPLE: Laxmi Narayana Temple, which is the main temple of Chamba
town was built by Sahil Varman in the 10th century AD. The temple has been built
in the Shikhara style. The temple consists of Bimana i.e. Shikhara and
GarbhGriha with a small antralya. Laxmi Narayana Temple has a mandapa like
structure also. The wooden Chhattries, the shell roof, atop the temple were in
response to the local climatic conditions as a protection against snowfall.
There are several
other temples within the complex. The temple of Radha krishna, Shiva Temple of
Chandergupta and Gauri Shankar Temple are among these. The temple of Laxmi
Narayana continued to be embellished by the Rajas who succeeded to the throne of
Chamba. Raja Balabhadra Verma perched the metallic image of Garuda on a high
pillar at the main gate of the temple. Raja Chhatra Singh place gilded pinnacles
on the temple tops in 1678 as a reaction against the orders of Aurangzeb to
demolish the temple. Later Rajas also added a shrine or two, thus enriching the
complex.
CHAMPAVATI TEMPLE: This temple is located behind the City Police Post and
Treasury building. As mentioned earlier the temple was built by Raja Sahil
Varman in memory of his daughter Champavati who is believed to have influenced
her father to set-up Chamba at its present location. The temple is in the
Shikhara style with elaborate stone carving and the wheel roof. The size of this
temple is equivalent to the largest of the Laxmi Narayana Temple.
VAJRESHWARI TEMPLE: This ancient temple is believed to be 1000 years old and
is dedicated to Devi Vajreshwari-Goddess of lightning. The temple is situated on
the northern most corner of the town at the end of Jansali Bazar. No historical
record of the temple is available. The temple is built in the Shikhara style
with wooden Chhattries and stands on the platform. The Shikhara of the temple is
elaborately carved. There are two other minor temples on either side of the main
shrine.
SUI
MATA TEMPLE: This temple can be divided into three parts which can
physically spread apart. The temple of Sui Mata is on an elevation of Shah
Madar Hill. A steep flight of steps comes down to a small pavilion just above
the Saho road. From the Saho road the flight of steps continues down to the main
town a little to the east of Chauntra Mohalla. At the end of the flight of steps
there is another small pavilion with gargoyles with running water. The flight of
stone steps to the aqueduct from the Sarota stream was built by Sarda, the Rani
of Raja Jeet Singh (1794-1808). According to the legend when Raja Sahil Varman
founded the town and made this aqueduct for water supply to the town the water
refused to flow. It was ascribed to supernatural causes. It was prophasised that
the spirit of the stream must be propitiated, and the Brahmins, on being
consulted replied that the victim must either be the Rani or her son. Another
tradition runs that the Raja himself had a dream in which he was directed to
offer up his son, where upon the Rani pleaded to be accepted as a substitute.
Thus on a appointed day the Rani along with her maidens was buried alive in a
grave. The legend goes on to say that when the grave was filled in the water
began to flow.
In memory of her
devotion a small shrine was erected at that spot and mela called Sui Mata Ka
Mela was also appointed to be held annually from 15th of Chait to the first of
Baisakh. This fair is attended by women and children who in their best attire
sing praises of the Rani and offer homage to the Rani for her singular
sacrifice.
CHAMUNDA DEVI TEMPLE: This temple is located on the spur of the Shah Madar
Hill overlooking the town to its south east. The temple stands on a raised
platform. The temple has artistic carvings on its lintel, pillars and the
ceiling. Behind the main temple is a small shrine of Lord Shiva in the Shikhara
style. There is another platform in front of this temple where two very old
peepul trees provide shelter to the visitors. From this platform a bird’s eye
view of most of the land marks in the town including Chaugan, Circuit House,
most of the temples and river Ravi can be had. The temple is being looked after
by Archaeological Survey of India.
This temple can be
approached by road from Chamba (3 kms). It lies on the right hand side of the
Chamba-Jhamwar road. School going children and pilgrims prefer to take the
flight of steps from Sapri to this temple. There steps were got constructed by
Raja Raj Singh (1764-1794 AD).
The temple is an
ideal picnic spot throughout the year because it has an easy approach and a
commanding view.
HARI
RAI TEMPLE: This temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu and dates back to 11th
century. It was probably built by Salabahana. This temple lies in the north-west
corner of the main Chaugan, which had became the official entrance to the town
by the end of 19th C. A steep path leads to the old Shitla bridge, which was
constructed in the year 1894. The temple is built in Shikhara style and stands
on a stone platform. The Shikhara of the temple is finely carved. This is one of
the major old temples, which is away from the old township and the only one near
the Chaugan.
Much of this temple
is hidden behind some unimaginative structures of the British period behind the
Gandhi Gate and the Fire Station Building. The Gandhi Gate was built in the year
1900 to welcome Lord Curzon, Viceroy. It is the only structure that has been
coated with saffron colour and stands out because of its prominent colour.
The temple enshrines
a marvellous bronze image of Lord Vishnu in the form of Chaturmurti. The temple
of Hari Rai is believed to be of great antiquity and legend affirms that the
Ravi once flowed in a shallow stream across the Chaugan and the temple had to be
approached by stepping stones.
CHAUGAN: The Chaugan is the heart and hub centre of all activities in Chamba.
Tradition is silent as to its use as a polo ground and the name is
etymologically distinct from Chaugan, the Persian name of Polo, being of
Sanskrit origin and meaning ‘four-sided’. Initially the five Chaugan were a
single patch of meadow. In 1890s the leveling of the Chaugan was done. It became
a public promenade and Cricket ground for the British. Annual Minjar Mela is
held in the Chaugan. Local people can be seen promenading in the Chaugan till
late night.
AKHAND CHANDI PALACE: Construction of this residential building of the
Chamba family was started by Raja Umed Singh sometimes between 1748-1764 AD. The
place was rebuilt and renovated during the reign of Raja Sham Singh with the
help of British engineers. The Darbar Hall (Marshal Hall) was built in 1879 by
Capt. Marshal and the Zanana Mehal was added in the reign of Raja Bhuri Singh.
The subsequent additions and alterations clearly betray the Mughal and the
British influence. In 1958 the Palace building was sold by the descendants of
the royal family to the Himachal Government. The latter handed it over to the
Education Department for the purpose of starting a Government College and
District Library. The palace has a commanding view of the Chaugan, Laxmi
Narayana Temple, Sui Mata, Chamunda Devi Temple, Rang Mehal, Hari Rai Temple and
Bansi Gopal Temple.
RANG
MAHAL: One of the largest monuments, Rang Mahal is located in Surara Mohalla.
The foundation of Rang Mahal was laid by Raja Umed Sing (1748-1764). The super
structure of RangMahal, which is in brick belongs to a later date with its
southern portion built around 1860 by Raj Sri Singh. The architecture of Rang
Mahal is an amalgam of Mughal and British styles. This palace was the residence
for a branch of the ruling family. Its fort like looks justify its use as royal
granary and treasury which is on its western side. Once the palace must have
hummed with activity of busy servant and the frolics of the royal blood but now
under the aegis of Handicrafts Department of the State Government, most of the
rooms of this palace are being used as work-shops for making shoes, chapples and
rumals. A number of decorative and colorful wall painting have been removed and
taken to National Museum of Delhi. Some of the wall paintings and richly painted
doors of the palace can be seen preserved in the Bhuri Singh Museum of Chamba.
BHURI
SINGH MUSEUM: Bhuri Singh Museum at Chamba opened formally on 14-09-1908, it
is named after Raja Bhuri Singh who ruled Chamba from 1904 to 1919. Bhuri Singh
donated his family collection of paintings to the museum. The idea to open a
public museum came from J. Ph. Vogel, an eminent Indologist who was serving
A.S.I. and who through an intensive exploration had discovered, read and
analyzed old inscriptions dispersed far and wide in the territory of Chamba
state. These inscriptions mostly in Sarda script shed important light on the
mediaeval history of Chamba. The prasastis of Sarahan, Devi-ri-kothi and mul
Kihar are now preserved in the museum.
Paintings of Bhagwat
Purana and Ramayana in peculiar style are inspired by Basohli idiom of painting
whereas Krishna, Sudama, Rukmini vivah and Usha-Anirudh and portraits in prime
Guler-Kangra style were executed by the artists who were patronized by the
Chamba rulers. The embroidered Chamba-Rumals are related in style since their
drawings were made by pahari painters though the embroidery was done by the
household ladies.
Besides these major
items of collections, there are coins, hill jewelry and costumes- both
traditional and royal, arms and armour, musical instruments and various
decorative objects.
The old museum
building which merged well with the landscape of Chamba was pulled down and the
present concrete monolith was inaugurated in 1975. The museum remains open from
10:00 AM to 5:00 PM throughout the year except on Monday and other gazetted
holidays.
MINJAR MELA: Minjar is the most popular fair of Chamba which is attended by
a large number of people from every nook and corner of the district. This mela
is held on the second Sunday of the Shravana month. The fair is announced by
distribution of Minjar which is a silk tassel worn on some parts of the dress by
men and women alike. This tassel symbolises the shoots of paddy and maize which
make their appearance around this time of the year. The week long fair begins
when the Minjar flag is hoisted in historical Chowgan. The town of Chamba wears
a colourful look with every person turning out in best attire. Most part of the
Chowgan is converted into markets and people do brisk business during this week.
Sports and cultural programmes are organised. On the third Sunday the gaiety,
colourfulness and enthusiasm reaches its crescendo when the colourful Minjar
procession of the deities accompanied by dancing troupes, traditionally attired
locals, traditional drum beaters along with Police and Home Guards band, begins
its march from Akhand Chandi Palace for the venue near the Police Lines Nalhora.
A great concourse of people is already assembled there. Earlier the Raja and now
the chief guest throws a coconut, a rupee, a seasonal fruit and a Minjar tied in
a red piece of cloth – Lohan – as offering to the river. This is followed by all
the people throwing their Minjars into the river. Traditional Kumjari-Malhar is
sung by the local artists. Betal leaves and ittra are offered to everyone among
the invitees as a gesture of respect and festivity. Untill 1943, a live buffalo
used to be pushed into the river to propitiate it. It if was carried away and
drowned, the event was regarded as propitious, the sacrifice having been
accepted. If it crossed the river and reached the other bank, that also was
auspicious as it was believed that all the sins of the town were transferred to
the other side of the river.
Minjar fair has been
declared as one of the state fairs of Himachal Pradesh. Wide coverage is given
on TV and print media. Undoubtedly Chamba is at its very best during this fair
that generally falls in the month of July/ August.
SAHO: Twenty
kms from Chamba is the village of Saho on the right bank of Sal river. The
village is situated on a high plateau of great beauty. Saho is famous for its
temple dedicated to Lord Chandra Shekhra i.e. the moon-crowned God, Shiva. The
temple is hidden behind the locality in a tree grove. Two magnificent images of
Shiva can be seen at the entrance and a huge Shivaling is enshrined in the
sanctum. Facing the temple is a life size Nandi bull carved with fine details.
According to Sarahan
Prasasti, "The temple was constructed by Stayaki, a local Rana in order to
establish friendship between his wife Somprabha and the daughter Parvati". It is
believed that the temple belongs to a period earlier than transfer of seat of
power from Bharmour to Chamba in 10th century. In the month of August/ September
a mela is held in the compound of the temple. This mela coincides with
Manimahesh Yatra.
During summer Saho
wears a golden mantle of wheat crop and in August/September the fields are lush
green with paddy crop. The spring water of Saho is supposed to have medicinal
value. There is a Forest Rest House at Saho.
DALHOUSIE
All local site seeing can be done
on foot in Dalhousie. The main tourist attractions are Panchpula, Kalatop and
Khajiar lake.
Places of Interest
PANCHPULA: Panchpula, a
beautiful spot, is barely 3 kms. from G.P.O. On the way to Panchpula is Satdhara
springs gurgling with refreshing water, believed to contain some medicinal
properties. Panchpula stream is the main source of water supply to Dalhousie and
Bahloon. The stream springs from the north side of DayanKund and runs down a
picturesque ravine to the waterworks of Panchpula. There is an elegant monument
erected at Panchpula where several streams meet at one point. This monument, a
samadhi was built in memory of great revolutionary Sardar Ajit Singh who
breathed his last in Panchpula. There is a Tourism restaurant and several chai
shops in Panchpula, that offer hot and cold beverages and snacks.
KYNANCE: Kynance is a
private residential building of Dharamvirs. This building was constructed during
the year 1933 by Dr. N.R.Dharamvir of Lahore. This building acquired historical
significance due to the reason that Neta Ji Subhash Chander Bose, a class fellow
of the wife of Dr. Dharamvir, stayed with them for a period of 7 months
beginning May, 1937. Before arriving in Dalhousie, Neta Ji was in British Jail
where his health had deteriorated. On the request of his younger brother the
British High Court released Neta Ji on parole on health grounds. It brought Neta
Ji to the climate of Dalhousie. Kynance is barely 50 kms. from G.P.O. It lies
hidden from the public eye below the road. An insignificant looking board
bearing the name of Kynance hangs from a tree and is discernible to only those
tourists who have an eye for details.
SUBHASH BAOLI: Just
approximatly 1 km from G.P.O. is a charming natural spot called Subhash Baoli.
Neta ji Subhash Chander Bose during his 7 months sojourn in Dalhousie in 1937 is
believed to have spent most of his days by the side of this water body,
meditating amidst dense woods of Cedar and meeting his party workers. This place
lies on the G.P.O. – JandriGaht Road. A canopy with seating facilities has been
created by the local administration at this place.
ST. ANDREW’S CHURCH: St.
Andrew’s Church commonly known as the Church of Scotland was built in the year
1903 at Baloon by Protestant Christians. The Church is approximately one and
half kms. from Dalhousie’s bus stand. The Church building is in good condition,
recently a brick boundary wall has been erected around it to save the building
from mischief mongers.
ST. PATRICK’S CHURCH: This
Church is situated in Baloon, Dalhousie Cantt., on Military Hospital road
approximately 2 kms. from main bus stand. St. Patrick’s Church is the largest
church in Dalhousie having a seating capacity of 300 persons in its main hall.
The Church was built in the year 1909 and the dressed-stone building is still in
good condition. This Church was built exclusively from contribution made by
officers and ranks of the British Army. At present the Church is managed and
maintained by the Catholic Diocese of Jalandhar.
ST. FRANCIS’ CHURCH: This
Catholic Church is a very prominent monument on the Subhash Chowk. This Church
was built in the year 1894 from the contributions made by Army and Civil
Officers and Civilians. This Church is managed and maintained by the Cathoilic
Diocese of Jalandhar. St. Francis’ Church on Prtrain hill is believed to have
been built on the lines of a certain church in England. Beautiful glass work and
intricate stone work can be seen in the Church. Service is conducted every
Sunday.
By the side of the
Church is the residence of the Priest. The building is called Alverna better
known to the local people as "Lambe Chole Wale Padri Ki Kothi".
ST. JONH’S CHURCH: This
Church stands on the Gandhi Chowk approximately 2 kms. from the main bus stand
of Dalhousie. This Church was the first to be built after the town of Dalhousie
was founded. Prior to 1863 a wooden structure stood at this place. The idea to
build a stone structure took birth with the arrival of Rev. John H. Pratt who
came to Dalhousie on 11-04-1863 and inspired the Christian community to build a
permanent church building at this place. Building of this church is a copy of
Roman Catholics church of England but this church belongs to Protestants. The
church building stands in a good condition but its surroundings demand much
better care. Service is conducted on every Sunday.
LAXMI NARAYAN TEMPLE: This
temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu and was built more than 150 years ago. The
temple enshrines a beautiful image of Lord Vishnu. The temple is frequented by
local devotees. The temple is located in Sadar Bazar approximately 200 mtrs.
from Subhash Chowk.
RADHA SWAMI SATSANG BHAWAN &
HOSPITAL: Dalhousie holds great significance for the followers/ disciples of
Radha Swami sect of Beas (Punjab). This Satsang Bhawan is situated near Moti
Tibba 300 mts. from Gandhi Chowk (G.P.O). In recent times many people from the
nearby villages of Dalhousie have embraced the Radha Swami Sect. Every Sunday
from 10 AM to 11 AM Satsang is held in the above cited premises. The Present
Radha Swami Chief Maharaj Gurinder Singh Ji visits Dalhousie twice a year. Even
the Late Maharaj Charan Singh Ji was very fond of Dalhousie. It is believed that
Baba Swarn Singh Ji was enlightend in Dalhousie.
SHIVKUL: Shivkul is an
Ashram of Vimala Thakur, a re-knowned religious philosopher lady from Gujarat.
Shivkul is on the Mall Road betwen Gandhi Chowk and Subhash Chowk. From here one
can enjoy the beautiful panorama of Pir Panjal Hills, connecting Chamba Distt.
with Jammu & Kashmir. During summer when Vimala Hi popularly known as Vimala
Bahen comes to Dalhousie many foreigners as well as Indian disciples of Vimala
Ji from all parts of the coutry and abroad gather in Dalhousie to attend her
lectures on spiritualism.
DAKSHINA MURTI: Dakshina
Murti is a yoga institution created by Dr. R. P. Kaushik of Sonepat/Delhi during
mid seventies. Dr. Kaushik travelled all over the world to teach yoga and
spiritualism. He died in July 1987. His followers still come to Dalhousie and
stay at Dakshina Murti 200 mts away from Subhash Chowk on the small Mall known
as Garam Sarak.
NORWOOD PARAMDHAM: Norwood
is a beautiful House situated on the east of upper Bakrota Hill of Dalhousie.
This house is also known as Kainth Wali Kothi is a local name given by people
of Dalhousie. Approximately 5 kms from Gandhi Chowk on the Bakrota Mall, the
kothi is surrounded by thick forest of deodars.
During 1925 a young
Yogi Swami Satyanand came to Dalhousie and stayed here. He meditated here and
took a silent vow that he will not break his fast till he finds the truth and
God. After fasting for a month Swami Ji was enlightened with "Ram Naam". He
called this place Tapo Bhoomi. After this enlightenment he wrote some noted
books like Ramayana, Geeta Parbachan, Bhagti Parkash, Amritvani. He died on 30th
November 1960. After his death a very close follower of Swami ji Bhagat Hans Raj
Ji of Gohana is organising Satsang at Norwood presently known as Param Dham also
called as Ram Ashram. Thousands of people from all over the country come to
Dalhousie twice a year to attend Satsangs. About 250 people can stay at a time
here when satsang is conducted.
BANIKHET: Seven kms short
of Dalhousie is Banikhet – the gateway to Dalhousie. At Banikhet the road
bifurcates for Chamba and Dalhousie. This small place has gained importance with
the setting-up of residential colony of Chamera Hydro-electric Project. There is
a PWD rest house at Banikhet. A Nag temple in Padhar Maidan now called mini
stadium is a place of worship for the people of Banikhet and villages around.
The temple is approximately 150 years old.
KALATOP: Kalatop and
Khajiar are best explored if you take a three days walk from Dalhousie to
Kalatop, Khajjiar and back Dalhousie.The trek is more or less level and requires
good health, a pair of sturdy walking shoes. Kalatop is 10 kms from G.P.O. at an
altitude of 8000 feet. Walking along the secluded and forested road through
upper Nakorota hills, one reaches Lakkarmandi. Between G.P.O. and Lakkarmandi
lies the Dalhousie water system, Tibetan Handicraft Centre and Dalhousie Potato
Farm at Ahla. Lakkarmandi is nestled between 8600 feet high DayanKund peak on
its right and Kalatop on the left. Dayan Kund has military installations and is
closed to civilians except the local people who visit Bhulwani Mata temple near
DayanKund.
Lakkarmandi is home
for dhogri families that are engaged in charcoal making. Most of the dhogris
have been driven to plains because of the fall in the demand for charcoal.
At Lakkarmandi there
is a Wildlife Barrier to check movement of vehicles on the unpaved but narrow
level road that runs 3 kms to Kalatop Forest Rest House. The walk from
Lakkarmandi to Kalatop is through dense forest of pines and deodars. The
solitude is occasionally broken by singing birds. The blissful solitude of
Kalatop is ideal for the honeymooners. Permit for the rest house is obtainable
from DFO, Wildlife, Chamba.
KHAJIAR: 23 kms from
Dalhousie by road and 13 kms from Kalatop is the mini Switzerland of India at a
height of 6400 ft. Hutchison writes, "Khajjiar is a forest glade of great
beauty, 6400 feet above sea level".
Khajjiar is often
reffered to as "Gulmarg of Himachal Pradesh". The lush green meadows are
surrounded by thick pine and cedar forests. Grazing herds of sheep, goats and
other milch cattle present a prefect pastoral scenery. There is a small lake in
the center of the saucer shaped meadow which has in it a floating island. Much
of the lake has degenerated into slush because of heavy silting during rains.
Still the landscape of Khajjiar is picturesque and a photographer’s delight.
A little away from
the lake is the temple of Khajji Nag belonging to 12th C. AD. In the mandapa of
the temple one can see the images of the Pandavas and the defeated Kaurvas
hanging from the roof of the circumambulatory path. The sanctum of the temple
has been beautifully carved from wood.
There is a Tourism
Hotel and some Tourism cottages at Khajjiar where the tourists can stay .
Besides there are two rest houses one each of P.W.D. and Forest Deptt. A couple
of private hotels have also come up, which do not match the above places in
terms of location and amenities. Bus service to and from Khajjiar is limited and
timings change according to local demands. There used to be a golf course in
Khajjiar which is not maintained. The best entertainment in Khajjiar is to walk
around the lake or to go for long walks in the thick pine forests. Children
enjoy this place because of the freedom of movement and the slopy terrain which
permits them to roll down to the lake without getting hurt. Another attraction
like any other hill station is horse riding.
On 07-07-1992, Mr.
Willy t. Blazer, Vice Counselor and Head of Chancery of Switzerland in India
brought Khajjiar on the world tourism map by christening it "Mini Switzerlan".
He also put a sign board of a yellow Swiss hiking footpath showing Khajjiar’s
distance from the Swiss capital Berne-6194 kms. Khajjiar is among the 160
locations in the world that bear topographical resemblance with Switzerland. The
Counselor also took from Khajjiar a stone which will form part of a stone
collage around the Swiss Parliament to remind the visitors of Khajjiar as Mini
Switzerland of India.
BHARMAUR: 65 kms from
Chamba is the land of legendary Gaddies, i.e. Bharmaur. Known as Brahmpur in the
6th century, was the seat of power of Chamba state for some 400 years till AD
920, when a new capital was founded at Chamba by Raja Sahil Varman. Bharmaur is
known for some very old archaeological remains, primarily the temples. All these
temples stand on a level area which call the Chaurasi after the 84 Siddhas who
are believed to have meditated in Bharmaur over 1000 years ago. These Siddhas
hailed from Kurukshetra and visited Manimahesh.
The oldest temples in
the complex are those of Lakshna Devi and Ganesh. Both these temples are made in
the hill style with gable roofs and rubble masonry. The outer facade, the inner
facade of sanctum, circum ambulatory path and the ceiling are exquisitely
carved. The idol of Lakshna Devi in her incarnation as Mahisasurmardini is
magnificent.
The tallest temple in
the whole complex is of Manimahesh built in Shikhara style of architecture. The
temple has a Shivalingam on a raised platform. The other temple in Shikhara
style is of Nar Singh. Lord Vishnu in his avtar as Nar Singh has been cast
vividly. There is a bronze Nandi of life size which stands facing the Manimahesh
temple. Inscriptions on the pedestal of the bull and on the idols of Lakshna
Devi and Ganesh date back to the reign of Raja Meru Varman. These idols are
believed to be the work of master craftsman Gugga. There is a small water source
called Ardh Ganda in a corner of the temple complex. Bathing in its water is
considered religiously significant. The country around Bharmour is regarded as
belonging to Shiva and is sometimes called Shiv-Bhumi. Being the home of nomadic
shepherds Gaddies it is also called Gadderan.
Just 4 kms above
Chaurasi temples is the hill temple of Bharmani Devi. A trek to this temple
refreshes the visitors as it unfolds the green woods before him.
The best period to
visit Bharmour is between July and September.
There is PWD
Rest-House and a Lodge for accomodation. A number of hotels, sarais and a
mountaineering hut with dormitory facility for 26 persons is coming up at
Bharmour. There is a regional centre of Mountaineering Institute, Manali, where
courses are conducted by qualified trainers. Bharmour is also known for its
delicious apples and local blankets.
MANI-MAHESH: In the month
of August/September the famous JATRA of Mani-Mahesh commences from
Laxmi-Narayana Temple in Chamba. The CHHARI is taken to the sacred lake of Mani-Mahesh,
which is one of the chief tirthas in the district. Off late people from north
India and beyond have started visiting this sacred lake. According to an
estimate nearly one lakh people visit this sacred lake every year and take a
holy dip. The lake is situated at the height of 13,500 feet above sea level and
at the base of Mani-Mahesh Kailsah peak (18,564 feet). Mani-Mahesh kailash is a
virgin peak. In 1968 an Indo-Japanese team led by Nandini Patel made an
unsuccessful attempt to scale the peak. The devout attribute the failure to the
divine prowesses of the holy mountain. On the margin of the lake is a small
marble Shivlaing called CHAUMUKHA.
Mani-Mahesh is 35 kms.
from Bharmour. During mela days efficient bus service is available upto Hadsar.
The pilgrimage is generally done in two stages. First camp is set-up at Dhanchho.
Several grazers can be seen grazing their sheep in the alpine pastures of this
place. the ascent from Chanchho to Mani-Mahesh lake is difficult in patches.
Just short of the lake is Gauri Kund where women take a holy dip before
returning to home. The pilgrimage to Mani-Mahesh is considered sacred like that
of Amarnath, Badrinath and Rameshwarm. During the mela days several BHANDARAS
are set-up for the benefit of pilgrims and meals are served free of cost. Pack
animals are also available for those who do not want to carry their luggage
themselves.
CHHATRARI: 45 kms from
Chamba via road is this famous village of Chhartrari. The village is inhabited
mostly by the Gaddies who are semi-postral lot engaged in rearing of sheep and
goats. This village, situated at a height of 6000 feet, its famous for its
remarkable hill-style temple of Shamti Devi.
The temple of
Chhatrari is regarded as one of the holiest ones competing with well known
temples of "Lakshna Devi" at Bharmour and of "Bhawani" at Kangra. The
construction of the temple is simple. It consists of a small Cell or sanctuary
in which one of the rare brasses by the master craftsman Gugga is enshrined. The
walls of the temple are built of rubble masonry alternating with beams of wood.
The structure is surmounted by a sloping roof of slate. The roof is supported by
richly craved wooden posts which form a VARANDAH or circumambulatory path round
the sanctum. The Shakti Devi temple is of interest owning to the elaborate
decoration of its facade, ceiling and pillar. The sanctum, its architecture and
sculpture betray a conscious effort on part of its builder to introduce a highly
refined post Gupta art in this remote part of Chamba.
The main idol in the
temple is that Shakti. This fine brass statue, 4 feet 6 inches tall shows Shakti
holding in her hands a lance (Power, energy) and a lotus (life), a bell (aether,
space) and a snake (death and time). Besides this main idol there are almost
thirty other small figurines of tutelary deities like Annapurna. Some of these
are believed to have been brought from far South or the State of Orrisa.
According to the
inscription at Chhatrari the temple was built by Raja Meru Varman, by whose
order the inscription was engraved alongwith the names of his father, grand
father and great grand father as well as that of the sculptor. This epigraph
commemorates Meru Varman’s victory over his rivals with the help of the Devi.
The outer walls of
the sanctum are covered with frescoes which are of recent origin and represent
scenes from PURANAS.
Near the Shakti Devi
Temple is the temple of Gauri Shankra. The stone image of Gauri Shankra is of
later origin. The work can be attributed to the 10th century AD which indicates
a long period of sculptural activity in the region.
A few minutes walk up
the mountain slopes from the main village is the Charauta temple which houses a
stone image of BHATOD NAG who gives water to the people in return for one black
and four white goats every three years.
There are two
interesting legends connected with the village. Villagers had to fetch water
from a nearby village call Makain. Once, a Chela of a siddha while carrying
water fell prey to bears. The Siddha invoked the deity to solve the water
problem. Inspired by the Devi he made 36 marks with his trident at different
places in the village and water gushed out from the points where the marks had
been made. There are 36 water sources in the village around which beautiful
PANIHARS (Fountain slabs) can be seen.
According to J.
Hutchison the village was named Chhatrari at a later date when Raja Bala Bhadra
(1589-1611) made a grant of 36 LARHIS to the temple following an accidental
death of a cow at the hands of the Raja. One larhi is equal to three acres of
land and such Lahris are today known as Chhatrari.
In the month of
September a mela is held on the third day after the mela at the Mani-Mahesh lake
whence a man brings a Lota of water with which the idol of Shakti is bathed. On
this day a number of sheep are slain to appease the goddess and to invoke her
blessings. After the prayer the gaddies in their traditional costumes dance to
the tune of local music.
The village is
approached either from Gehra from where a bridle path leads to Chhatrari or from
Luna-Ka-Pul from where a steep trace is to be ascended to reach the village or
by the motorable road, experiencing a scary ride almost 700 to 900 feet above
the river Ravi as one nears the village. The ascent on foot is most rewarding as
the visitors are welcomed by lush green fields and orchards at the outskirts of
Chhatrari. Chhatrari looks most scenic during September and October. Even on
other occasions, particularly in spring, Chhatrari offers pleasant scenery
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